Chikan kari, was strongly rekindled by Moghul patronization and attained perfection as the exquisite needlework and hand work underwent further honing and refinement.The name chikan has been derived from the Persian word Chakin or Chikeen meaning a kind of cloth wrought with needle work. Chikan is said to have originated as a court craft, during the reign of Mughal Emperor Jehangir, by his wife Noor Jahan.
Traditionally, the chikan embroidery was exclusive white items, decorations similar to the cotton, jamdani, and woven traditions. The Nawab Shujaudaula of Avadh was greatly attracted by this craft. It was his keen initiative and interest, which promoted this craft in present day Lucknow. Another record of the travelers of the sixteenth century describes that during the sixteenth century, white work from Bengal, was influenced by the Portuguese traders, the residents of the port Hugli, north of Calcutta of that time. The Bengali migrants who came from Dacca in eighteenth century to settle in Lucknow brought this art of surface ornamentation to Lucknow. Chikan work came into production by the nineteenth century. During this period similar work was also produced at Calcutta and Madras. It is reported that earlier brass, bone, copper or iron needles were used, now only steel needles are used.
